A First-Timer’s Guide to Madeira: Best Hikes, Beaches & Bites

From foggy forests to volcanic beaches, sunny cliffs to moody mountain roads, Madeira surprised us with just how much variety it packs into one island. In five days, we hiked through cloud-covered peaks, wandered fairytale-like forests, swam in lava pools, and ate more garlic bread than we’d like to admit. It’s a choose-your-own-adventure kind of place — full of raw nature, quiet towns, and food that punches well above its weight.

Here’s everything we loved — and everything we’d recommend — from our first trip.

Best Time to Visit

Ask a local, and they’ll tell you: Madeira doesn’t have an “off-season.” The weather is mild and pleasant all year, with warm days, cool evenings, and a fresh breeze you’ll miss when it’s gone.

We visited in June, and it was ideal — comfortable temps, zero oppressive crowds, and the island blooming with wildflowers.

One heads-up: Madeira is a microclimate playground. You can be sunbathing on the beach, drive 30 minutes, and be fully engulfed in fog and drizzle.

So…

Pack layers
Check regional weather (Funchal vs. Santana vs. São Vicente can all be wildly different)
Definitely rent a car — it’s the best way to explore and escape whatever weather finds you.

Where to Stay

We stayed in an Airbnb just outside of Funchal’s Old Town, which worked perfectly as a home base. You’re 20 minutes from the airport, close to all kinds of restaurants and bars, and in a great spot for day trips all over the island.

We did consider some of the smaller towns — like Seixal or São Vicente — and while they’re beautiful, they’re also tiny. Great for a one-night escape if you want silence and sea mist, but if you want dinner options or a coffee after 5pm, Funchal is the move.

Other Hotel Options to Consider:

Hotel Caju – Modern, stylish, great location. Bonus: their açaí bowls are next-level.
Castanheiro Boutique Hotel – Rooftop pool, spa, and a prime spot in Funchal’s old town.
Quinta da Casa Branca – A luxury garden hotel set on a lush estate — quiet and beautiful.

Things to Do

Explore Funchal

Old Town: Meander through cobblestone streets, admire colorful murals and painted doors, and pop into wine bars and galleries. A perfect intro to Madeira’s charm.
Mercado dos Lavradores: We love visiting local markets — we got to try unique local fruits like pitangas, local mangos, and delicious fruit (yes, that’s the name). The strawberry figs soaked in jam were addictive. Downstairs, we saw fishmongers break down tuna the size of small cars and it was amazing to see the popular scabbard fish in its full form.
Armazém do Mercado: A converted warehouse full of local design shops, art, and a great café. A cool place to grab a wine or find souvenirs that don’t scream “airport gift shop.”
Fábrica Santo Antonio: Biscuit bakery since 1893. We loved the almond biscuits and finished them before we left the island. It’s also a great place to pick up gifts or souvenirs, and prices are very reasonable.

Hikes + Nature

Pico Ruivo (via Achada do Teixeira): Madeira’s tallest peak — and the most beautiful hike we’ve ever done. It’s 6.5km round trip, all stone-paved, with ~500m of elevation gain. Start at dawn and catch the sun rising over a sea of clouds and wildflower-lined paths. Tips: Bring layers, a headlamp for early starts, and running shoes are enough. There’s even a WC near the top.
Fanal Forest: One of our favorite spots from the trip. A UNESCO-listed laurel forest full of mossy, twisted trees and wandering cows. Draped in fog, it felt enchanted, eerie, and peaceful all at once. Tips: Go early for the best fog, wear shoes/boots you don’t mind muddying, and don’t rush it. Just wander.
Ponta de São Lourenço: Stark cliffs, coastal wind, and beautiful cliffs. Hike out toward the end of this peninsula for some of the island’s most dramatic views.
Entry: €3 per person (they take cards). Tip: It can get very windy — bring a hat and layers.
Vereda do Larano: A cliff-hugging trail between Machico and Porto da Cruz. Lush, green, and almost theatrical in its views. Not too strenuous but super rewarding.
Miradouro da Garganta Funda: A quick stop with a huge payoff — this overlook gives you one of Madeira’s tallest waterfalls plunging into a deep, green canyon.
Cascata dos Anjos: A waterfall that literally flows over a road. You can drive through it (slowly) or just walk under it and pretend you’re in a shampoo commercial.

Towns + Villages

Câmara de Lobos: A lively fishing village with colorful boats, art hanging across the streets, and plenty of great food. We visited during São João and São Pedro festivals — music, decorations, and local vibes everywhere.
Don’t miss: Dinner at Vila do Carne, perched on the hill with a killer view.
Seixal: A quiet coastal town with dark sand beaches and a more local, off-the-grid vibe. Perfect for a beach break or coffee with a view.
Porto Moniz: Known for its natural lava pools — great for swimming on sunny days. Also home to Piscinas Naturais do Aquário, a bit quieter than the main pools but just as beautiful.
Praia do Porto do Seixal: One of the only natural black sand beaches in Madeira. Soft, swimmable, and striking. Tip: Don’t bring white towels like we did 😉
Ruins of St. George: A scenic stone archway perched above the ocean. Just a quick stop — but a gorgeous one.

Scuba Diving

Atalaia Diving Center: Walk-in shore dives off a house reef made things simple, and the team was super professional with top-tier gear. We were lucky and got to see manta rays, swaying garden eels on the sand floor, lots of moray eels (including the rare fangtooth), and a giant sea turtle. The price was also very reasonable – 2 dives with gear and a guide for €125.

Next time: Garajau Marine Park — known for massive groupers and big fish schools.

What to Eat + Drink

Can’t-Miss Restaurants

Vila do Carne – Oversized skewers of beef espetada grilled with bay leaves and garlic, crispy garlic fries, and sweeping ocean views. Affordable prices for what you get, we will definitely be back. Located in Câmara de Lobos, a cute town that’s about a 15 min drive from Funchal.
Vila do Peixe – Seafood sibling to Vila do Carne. Bouillabaisse was loaded and full of flavor. It’s literally next door to Vila do Carne, so pick one if you are just visiting for the weekend.
Casal da Penha – Michelin Bib Gourmand with beautiful plating and a rooftop terrace in Funchal. Book ahead, reservations are required.
Vila Baleia – Great, unassuming spot near Porto Moniz. Ideal for a low-key lunch after swimming in the natural thermal pools. Their espada com banana was our favorite version on the island — crisply fried and surprisingly balanced.
Restaurante dos Combatentes – This historic spot in Funchal has been operating for over 100 years, and still serves some of the best Madeiran classics around. Their polvo à lagareiro (roasted octopus in olive oil and garlic) was melt-in-your-mouth good, and the staff made us feel like regulars.
Restaurante Dominó – Rustic comfort food at an unassuming spot on the West side of the island. Try the açorda (garlicky bread soup) and bolo do caco (Madeira’s addictive flatbread).
Baía do Bago – Ocean-side spot with creative dishes — the squid + clam casserole in celery purée was unexpectedly amazing. A nice stop if you’re exploring the North or Eastern part of the island.
A Meu Gosto Wine Bar – Cozy natural wine spot with great small plates (e.g., tuna in pepper sauce, local cheese, delicious sourdough) in Funchal.

Local Dishes & Island Favorites

Espada com banana – Fried black scabbardfish paired with banana and passionfruit. Unexpectedly delicious. Vila Baleia had our favorite version.
Espetada – Juicy chunks of beef skewered on bay laurel sticks, seasoned with garlic and salt, then grilled over open flame. Tender, smoky, and dripping with flavor — often served hanging vertically over your plate with fries catching the drippings.
Bolo do caco – Flat, crispy sweet potato bread grilled and slathered in garlic butter. A non-negotiable.
Poncha – The island’s traditional drink made with aguardente de cana (sugarcane rum), fresh citrus juice (usually lemon or orange), and honey. It’s strong, sweet, and slightly tart. Pick your flavor and try it fresh at Emanuel’s — only €3.50 and dangerously good.
Polvo à lagareiro – Octopus roasted in garlic and olive oil until buttery and tender. Try it at Restaurante dos Combatentes or Nova Onda.
Bola de Berlim – Portuguese custard doughnut dusted with sugar. If you’re doing the Pico Ruivo hike, make a stop at Delícias da Bia after.
Coral beer – Light, crisp, and brewed on the island. The ultimate beach beer.

Next Time: Porto Santo

We didn’t make it to Porto Santo, but it’s at the top of our list for next time. It’s known for its long golden beaches, crystal water, and sand that’s supposedly medicinal.
A quick 2-hour ferry from Funchal gets you there or a direct flight from Porto. Worth the detour for a full beach day.

Final Thoughts

Madeira is one of those rare places that over-delivers. You expect great scenery — and you get it. But you also get garlic-soaked bread, black sand beaches, enchanted fog forests, and an entire island that somehow still feels like a hidden gem.

Pack layers. Rent a car. Eat the banana fish. Talk to the fruit vendors.
Trust us — you’ll want to go back before you even leave.

Erika & Mark