Naples is raw, loud, chaotic….and we’re so here for it. In just 48 hours, we wandered through open-air galleries, took in sweeping views from hilltop castles, stumbled upon shrines to Maradona, and ate some of the best pizza and pastry of our lives. It’s not polished like Florence or romantic like Venice, but there’s an electricity to Naples that makes you feel alive.
Here’s how we spent 2 delicious, whirlwind days in this gritty, glorious city by the sea.
Must-See Sights
Galleria Umberto I
A stunning 19th-century shopping arcade that feels like a cathedral for retail. The soaring glass dome, mosaic floor, and iron detailing are worth the visit alone—even if you don’t step into a single shop. Don’t miss the lucky tradition: locals and tourists alike spin on their heel atop the small bronze tile embedded in the floor’s compass rose for good fortune. We’re not saying it works…but we’re also not not saying it worked. 😉
Piazza del Plebiscito
The heart of Naples, this grand open square is flanked by the Royal Palace and the neoclassical San Francesco di Paola church. A great place to grab a coffee, people-watch, or take in the sheer scale of it all.
Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino)
A medieval fortress right near the port. If you’re arriving by ferry, it’s one of the first dramatic sights to greet you. Bonus points if you visit at golden hour—those stone walls practically glow.
Castel Sant’Elmo
We missed the castle’s official closing time by literally five minutes (classic), but the views from just outside were still worth the climb. From up here, you can see the whole Bay of Naples stretch out in front of you…Vesuvius looming in the distance, rooftops glowing, and the city buzzing far below. It’s a gorgeous spot to take in the sunset.
Maradona Mania
Diego Maradona is everywhere. Murals, shrines, flags, even entire alleyways dedicated to the football legend. Whether or not you’re a fan, it’s a fascinating cultural layer to the city. Keep your eyes peeled—some of the most striking tributes are in the most unexpected places like barber shops and lemonade stands.
Where to Eat
Pizza Brandi
Allegedly the birthplace of the Margherita pizza, and a must for any pizza pilgrim. But beyond the origin story, the experience was just fun. The pizza was perfectly charred and chewy, and the staff was genuinely warm—posing for photos, joking with us by the pizza oven, and making the whole thing feel like a celebration.
Pasticceria Poppella
The fiocco di neve classico, an iconic Naples treat, was life-changing. Imagine a delicate brioche bun filled with cold, sweet ricotta cream so airy it basically evaporates in your mouth. €2 for pure joy. We’re still dreaming of it and would go back in a heartbeat to try the other flavors. Don’t sleep on this spot.
A Casa d’ ‘e Femminielli
We stumbled into this cozy, low-key gem for dinner and their pasta of the day was heavenly…a linguini with zucchini and cheese melted into a skillet. The pasta was rich and comforting, and the vibe was super welcoming. Even though this street is filled with restaurants, we loved that there were tables of locals eating here too.
Where to Drink
Aperitivo at Ex Falegnameria Cocktail & Wine Bar
This spot totally charmed us. Tucked on a side street with glowing lanterns and a vintage vibe, they deliver your drinks in a little basket—alongside snacks, of course (this is Italy, after all). Creative cocktails, great energy, and a perfect place to wind down before dinner.
Final Thoughts
Two days was just enough time to scratch the surface of Naples—and to know we want to come back. It’s a city of contrasts: messy and magical, rough around the edges but brimming with soul. The kind of place where you can watch the sunset from a castle, get emotional over a €2 pastry, and stumble upon a full-blown shrine to a soccer player—all in one afternoon.
We’ve barely touched the surface (underground Naples, and more pizza spots are still on our list), but if you’re looking for a city that’s real, flavorful, and unapologetically itself—Naples is it.
📍Planning a southern Italy trip? Don’t miss our guides to the Sicily, Puglia, and beyond. And follow @erikaandmark for more recs, stories, and real-time wanderings.
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